"Who would've thought an island that tiny would be big enough to hold all our old boyfriends?"
Sex and the city "Where There's Smoke"
Overlooking the city I live in always fascinates me. I can't help but to start thinking about my life once I see it all laid out in front of me:
Is it really possible that it's all happening in this tiny place?
That it can hold all my problems and many of my friends?
Hamburg has perfected the passage to overlooking the city:
You can walk through a 450m long tunnel under the river to then end up all by yourself in an industrial area where you can sit at the pier waiting for the sun to set.
Alright, alright, it's not that secret. Most people from Hamburg know about it and you'll probably find it in your lonely planet but it's not only about walking to the other side, it's the beauty of the tunnel itself I'm talking about, so let's just go with it, ok?
The “alter Elbtunnel” was built between 1907 and 1911 by Raabe and Wöhlecke, the same architects who designed the whole Landungsbrücken area to enable the harbor workers to cross the river without using a boat.
The two tubes crossing below the river Elbe are tall enough to not only let pedestrians but also cars pass.
The entrance is not – as usual – through ramps but through stairs and elevators, including several huge ones for cars.
elevators for cars!
The impressive entrance building was designed with the Pantheon as a role model:
A monumental rotunda with a dome arranged behind a temple facade.
The interior is less decorated but still impressive simply by it's size.
let's ignore the construction site right in front of it, shall we?
Entering the building, keep your eyes open for the beautiful tiles.
This mosaic arch was definitely not what I expected to find in Hamburg!
Once you make it to the tunnel (take the stairs at least once!), take a second to again look at the tiles:
The shiny white ones were exchanged for the tunnel's 100st birthday, to bring back the glow of light inside the tunnel (and also because too many were broken).
I also love the industrial lights lined up on both sides of the tunnel. This could be a scary and cold place but with this exceptional light design it has a rather mystic feel.
And then you make it and see... this!
Alright, it's not exactly like looking at Paris from the Eiffel tower but I think it's really charming to have this simple and quiet place almost for yourself.
You want to do the Titanic-move, don't you?
On the other side of the river, you will see the pier and the entrance building you just walked into. Behind that the “tanzende Türme”, a new building by Hadi Teherani at Reeperbahn. Further right, you see the “Michel” and then the “Elbphilharmonie”.
There will be small boats swarming around and probably a massive cargo boat coming through at some point.
Bring a picnic blanket, a bottle of wine and just enjoy!
Only in Hamburg: a boat standing in the way if you want to take a picture of a church
PS: If you're hungry after coming back through the tunnel, get a "Fischbrötchen" at one of the many snack bars there. It's basically a fish finger sandwich if you take the "Bremer" one (I think
that's the one for children) or you could get something more exciting like pickled herring if you're brave enough.
How to get there:
Take the U3 to Landungsbrücken and then turn right towards the entrance